Home
About this Journal
Current Month
 123456
78910111213
14151617181920
21222324252627
28
Feb. 7th, 2010 @ 02:35 pm Patternmaking
Tags: ,
Patternmaking is what I've been up to the past year and a half.

So, I'll take you through what we've learned, step by step, and behind the LJ-cut, for those interested, I'll put summarized lessons.

( Read more... )
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Jan. 1st, 2009 @ 12:00 am Happy 2009!
Tags:
HappyNewYear

I wish you for 2009 a healthy year that brings happiness, and takes you closer to reaching your dreams.
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Jul. 3rd, 2008 @ 09:52 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Points Received
Tags: ,
So, I got my points for the exams and the C-test (Why do they call this a "C-proef"?).

Theory:
Color study (kleurenleer): 8/10, this is where we studied the effects of colors, the typical use of colors in the seasons/collections, and current trends. I thought this would be far worse, because I just didn't know what to answer.

Fashion in a broad sense (mode in een breder kader): 40/50, this is where we discussed current trends, designers, news, and when we went out to events and museums. This was pretty easy, actually.

Fashion drawing (modeschetsen): 7/10, my drawings are not art, I know that. They are line drawings that show an outfit. Still, I was sure I'ld get enough points. We had to make a drawing in all color and add it to our exam.

Fashion Terminology (modeterminologie): 8/10, we had to put names in dutch, french and english for parts of a skirt. Not so difficult actually, thanks to the internet and all the fashion/costuming people in my friendslist.

Designers of the 20th Century (Ontwerpers 20e E): 35/50, we learned about the most important designers of the century, and we had to discuss 2 of them ourselves. This wasn't too difficult either. I had Gianni Versace and Nicky Vankets, and I really worked for Versace, and nobody knew Vankets had a collection out.

Practical (Praktijk), 120/150: We did a lot of practical things in class, and that's basically what's included in this.

Textile (Textielwarenkennis), 20/20: The question was "What kinds of fibers exist? And name 3 examples of each".

Total: 238/300

C-Test: This is basically our fashion show, but also the trendboard.: 300/400.
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Jun. 1st, 2008 @ 06:35 pm Fashion Show
Tags: ,
We had a show this weekend!

I had some wonderful models walking for me: Elvire, Dorien, Silvie, Nathalie and Tine. Nathalie and Tine were 2 of the shared models, Silvie is the girlfriend of a colleague of mine, and Dorien and Elvire reacted to my shouting out for models.

Friday we had a massive fitting session, where outfits were exchanged to see who fit into what best. And we also practiced how we were going to walk during the show. Then I gave Elvire and Dorien a ride on their way back home.

Saturday began early, because I still had some sewing work, in the afternoon I got ready, and saw that I didn't have much time left, so got off to the place the show was. Dorien, Elvire and I arrived at the same time. Nathalie and Tine were already there. I saw Dorien outside and I quickly handed her a box, so I wouldn't have to return to my car once parked. Silvie came a few minutes later.

I hung up my clothes in the allotted space, but it was very crowded in that part of the room, so we went to another part for makeup and later for dressing, where we could steal some chairs and a table. We had a new repetition, and still changed a little in the choreography. Silvie, Dorien and Elvire seated to get made up, and I waited, walked around a bit and tried to breath in the extremely crowded room.

Then, once made up, we started getting dressed, because I wanted my models to be ready before the show started. They looked great. Nathalie and Tine were dressed by all 4 of us during the show, Especially Tine must have had a very special moment. She was getting a skirt pinned shut, a top buttoned down, 2 loose sleeves glued on, and makeup changed at once. She had 5 people fiddling on her. Nathalie was a little earlier, and dressed part herself, and by Silvie -if I recall.

We had a special little 'choreography', that I made up with my models to have as least amount of walking as possible, but still show all the designs properly. We must have made quite an impression, all the other designers had much more normal clothes, and there we were in our victorian inspired outfits. My models looked great, I am very proud of them, and sad the show was over. Plus points go to Lady Louiza, she was unable to walk in the show, but send us a text message to cheer us on.

I still need to get scored over the designs, I'll see how that goes.

As soon as I have them: pictures and hopefully a video.
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Mar. 2nd, 2008 @ 09:47 pm Wanted: models
Tags: , , ,
Wanted: Models for fashion show 31 MAY 2008.
You'll be showing 1 item, onbeforehand adapted to your size.
No requirements for the models, except you have to be able to walk.
Reward: 1 made-to-measure custom outfit from the collection.

Respond here, or send email to ankhayra. I need 6 female and 1 male model. I promise a fun day and a good choreography.




Gezocht: Modellen voor modeshow op 31 MEI 2008.
Je zal 1 item, vooraf op jouw maat aangepast, dragen in de show.
Er zijn geen eisen voor de modellen, behalve dat je moet kunnen lopen.
Beloning: 1 naar wens op maatgemaakte outfit uit de collectie.

Antwoord hier, of stuur een mailtje naar Ankhayra. Ik heb 6 vrouwelijke en 1 mannelijk model nodig. Ik beloof een leuke dag, en een goede choreografie.




Very exceptionally, the comments are screened.
About this Entry
The Black A
8 comments
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Feb. 3rd, 2008 @ 09:57 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 16
Tags: ,

Fashion Designer Course

Year 2, Day 16


January 18, 2008

There's a special exhibition and guided tour in the fashion museum of Antwerp on March 12.

The trendboard: Should have silhouettes representing the collection, all the fabrics in all the colors, a picture to create the mood. In A2 format, that's big. So, looking for a picture brown/black/misty of a deserted industrial building or -better- a steamtrain.

The Workbook: a book showing the evolution of the work, drawings, patterns, searches for haberdashery, things like that.

The price calculation: can be included in the workbook, for those who want to do that, but must also be made separate. This is the calculation as we learned it last year.

Photoshoot: If things go according to plan, 2 photshoots will be done this year. The first will be after the easter holidays, in April. The second will be in May.

The theory exam will consist of actualiteit (fashion news), designers of the 20th century, and the price calculation. Practical exam will be the fashion show, trendboard, workbook and technical drawings.

Amazon has a great book on Dior. While searching for it, I found this edition.... Look at the "retail prices", btw... I think I'll add it to my wishlist.
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Feb. 3rd, 2008 @ 09:30 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 15
Tags: ,

Fashion Designer Course

Year 2, Day 15


Januari 11, 2008

It was my time to talk about 2 designers. The first I picked was Gianni Versace. Little mistake. He did so much different things with fashion, I had the longest talk of the class. And, practically nothing can be found of what he did on the internet. There's some good books, I used Gianni Versace and The Art and Craft of Gianni Versace (and more books about Gianni Versace). The second was Nicky Vankets (nl). He's a young (well, 27) Flemish designer who works for the family company making wedding dresses and party dresses for some years, and now also has his own casual/dressy line.

We still worked on our class project a little, the jackets started to emerge, and the skirt was nearing ready (or so we thought).
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Dec. 23rd, 2007 @ 10:55 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 14
Current Mood: excited
Tags: ,

Fashion Designer Course

Year 2, day 14

This was not december 21, but rather december 22, 2007.

We did not have class on friday this time, but instead went to the Momu on saturday. Momu is the fashion museum in Antwerp. Currently they are having an exhibition (well, "exhibition") with Bernhard Wilhelm.

You can't call it an exhibition, because there's so much fun going on. The guide at the museum called it a fun park. It starts with a ghost house then goes via a protest march to a party to street wear over Tirol to an empty room. An empty room with a broken Pepsi machine. From there on, we went to a video of the collections, a demolished bedroom, some outstanding designs (the monkey dress), a streetwear at the museum room, a drug experience and some weird desings to end with a few pictures from his latest collection.

Whatever story anyone tells, it can never give you the emotion of this exhibition. If you are in the neighborhood of the museum, go and see it. You'll be amazed.
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Dec. 23rd, 2007 @ 09:51 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 13
Tags: ,

Fashion Designer Course

Year 2 Day 13

This was December 14, 2007.

Rosa started with telling us about Cora Kemperman and Kris Van Assche.

Cora Kemperman is a Dutch fashion designer. She works ethically, environmentally and socially friendly. The production is done in India, with care for child labor and work conditions; synthetic and bio-cotton fabrics are used. Cora Kemperman wants to dress the women very feminin, and that's how she designs her clothes. What I think is amazing, is that she has a network of shops in The Netherlands and Belgium.

Kris Van Assche (and Wikipedia-nl) is a Flemish fashion deisnger, who studied in Antwerp, and moved to Paris where he worked between 1998 and 2004 for Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. He started his own collection in 2005. In 2007 he was asked to be the designer for the Dior Menswear collection. I saw him in a local showbizz/lifestyle program, and he's a lovely guy.

And again we worked on our class work. 2 sewing machines were rattling, the iron was ironing and I showed my drawings to our teacher again -the full set this time. I'll see whether I can get my scanner working, then I have digital copies of them.
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Dec. 23rd, 2007 @ 08:25 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 12
Tags: ,

Fashion Desinger Course

Year 2, Day 12

This was december 7, 2007.

We started with Brigitte who told us about the work of Hilde Frunt and Christian Lacroix.

Hilde frunt makes some awesome knitwear ("Haute Tricot"), and these days works with her son, Sigi under the joint label KNIT. She has done commissioned work for designers as AF Vandervorst, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten and Bruno Pieters. Brigitte chose Hilde Frunt because her speciality is knitwear.

Christian Lacroix is her foreign designer. Evian asked Christian Lacroix to design this years special holidays bottle. That haute couture bottle is really awesome. If they'ld sell it, millions could be sold, but they decided to make only 99 and auction them off for good causes.

Then afterwards we continued work on our class project. The serger was installed, so we could do some of that work, making edges for the skirt and the jacket. Someone did some sewing as well, but that was far away, so I didn't see it.
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Dec. 12th, 2007 @ 09:37 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 11
Tags: ,

Fashion Designer Course

Year 2, Day 11


This was November 30, 2007.

Back in class, we got some interesting information. The school in Aalst went to a local company that makes "passementerie" (trimmings, basically ribbon). And this book passed through my hands: Femme Fashion: 1780-2004. Very interesting, and definately good to go on my wish list.

Andrea then did her piece on Anita Evenepoel and Viktor & Rolf.

Anita Evenepoel is a local, Antwerp fashion designer, who works with a veriety of interesting fabrics (including rubber).
More info: http://www.pretapartir.be/ and http://www.zuper.com/portfolio/vizodka/texts/evenepoel.html.

Viktor & Rolf is a couple of Dutch designers, who work together.

Our teacher talked about Elsa Schiaparella. She learned to make clothes for herself, because she did not have any money, and when people liked her designs, she got commissioned to make a series of gowns (which she got encourage to do by Paul Poiret). She then starts to make sweaters with trompe l'oeil and art deco designs. She also makes her own perfume (well, a gigantic collection of perfumes). She opened a shop at the Place de la Vendôme in Paris, the most expensive place to have a shop in Paris. The shop still exists, and sells perfume, scarfs and purses. Schiaparelli is the first who used a zipper (Oh, le shock!) in haute couture.

Then we continued with the class task a little bit, which was my chance to see how it had progressed.
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Dec. 12th, 2007 @ 09:11 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 10 part 2
Tags: ,

Fashion Designer Course

Year 2, Day 10 part 2


This was November 24, 2007. But instead of class, we went to the fashion museum in Hasselt, where an exhibition is going on with historical gowns from a Dutch lady, Jacoba de Jonge and historical fashion pictures from Marie-Jes Ghering.

Jacoba de Jonge inherited a collection of gowns from 1750 to 1950, and was kind to give them on loan to the museum for this exhibition. The collection is quite versatile, and so very interesting to go have a look at. Here and there the museum has added a piece from their own collection to the exhibition.

The fashion pictures that Marie-Jes Ghering gave in loan (do not dicredit the pictures at the museum, look at them carefully), are like the ones in this book: Complete Costume History / Auguste Racinet - Tashen, 2006 - ISBN: 3822850950. (ex librarian writes book reference...)

If you are in Belgium, and interested to see 1800-1900 gowns in real life, go quickly, the exhibition runs through January 6, and the museum is not expensive (5 euro, or less).

The Hasselt Modemuseum website.
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Dec. 12th, 2007 @ 08:29 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 10
Tags: ,

Fashion Designer Course

Year 2, Day 10


This was November 23, 2007. I was not in class, because I had to attend to a work-related event. So, I have questioned my colleagues...

Moira did a piece on Dirk Van Saene. He is one of the Antwerp Six. More info about Dirk Van Saene at Belgium.be.

Our teacher did a similar piece on Mariano Fortuny. He created the Delphos gown, (Wikipedia has no info on the delphos gown)

The class then later on continued the work on the class project. All pieces are drawn and cut, and for the skirt the pattern is pinned to the fabric, ready to be cut.
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Nov. 18th, 2007 @ 08:51 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 9
Tags: ,

Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 9


History: Paul Poiret


Worked at a paraplu umbrella company and took scraps of fabric home to experiment on. After a short time at Doucet and Worth, he borrowed some money from his mother and started his own company. In 1904 he made his name by making a dress for a customer with a cape embellished with fur.

Poiret is said to have deliberated the women of the corset. Although, Madeleine Vionnet claimed the same. He is famous for his high waisted fashion, with no emphasis on breasts or hips, and straight skirts. He is names as the inventor of the hobble skirt, lampshade-tunic and harem pantaloons. The figure changes, and flatter busts were more fashionable, so the flatener was invented: a thick rubber band. This is also the time when people started dieting.

In 1911 he made an mix between pants and skirt, so women could ride the bicycle.

After serving in the first world war, he came back to find the world changed, he divorsed, spend all his money and died in 1944 forgotten and broke.

See for more: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_Poiret

Designs


I showed my first designs to the teacher. She actually liked them more than I hoped for. So that is good, and I got good ideas from her to make a few changes. I will keep doing something like this in the future, search for a few "customers" who can give me good ideas to how my designs are. It's good to make designs, but someone has to look at it and judge them.
So far, I have 3 designs 'ready' and 2 halves (and 2 first drafts). The teacher really liked one design, and the others she thought were good, but needed a little more work (which is true).

In december, I'll try to make some good drawings, and scan them. Maybe I'll post them then, but I may decide to post friendsonly.
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Nov. 11th, 2007 @ 05:31 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 8
Tags: ,

Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 8


This was November 9. We had no class on November 2 due to a school holiday week around November 1, All saints.

The trip to London will be december 13, with departure early in the morning, and returning late at evening. But I'm not going to be there. I might go a week earlier, maybe. The exhibition is about 1947-1957, so that doesn't interest me so much, but still.

( Read More )
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Oct. 28th, 2007 @ 06:30 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 7
Tags: ,

Fashion Designer Course


Year 2, Day 7


We saw some pictures of the Spullenhulp fashion show, and saw the powerpoint that was used in our show in June. We did some more administrative things, like see how the trip to the Hasselt Modemuseum would go. A trip to London will be made, somewhere in December probably, to go to the The golden Age of Couture at the Victoria & Albert Museum and of course, go shopping.

And then we continued on the class task (skirt and jacket). These entries will become more interesting soon, I promise. We'll have more theoretic classes from November on, but the class task needs to be done first, and yet will continue for several weeks, I assume. But at least I will be able to talk about the theory. We learn a lot in class, but not not very interesting to write about.
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Oct. 28th, 2007 @ 05:27 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 6
Tags: ,

Fashion Designer Course


Year 2, Day 6



We had no class, but we went to the fashion show of Spullenhulp / Petit Reins. Spullenhulp is an organisation that collects old clothes (and other stuff) from people, and gives those to poor people. Every year, to bring themselves in the news, and to raise money for their organization, they ask some fashion designers to design some items that are then auctioned off. This year the proceeds of that auction will be used to build low cost apartments.

The evening started on the parking lot of a local supermarket, where little busses ran on and off to take people to the center of Spullenhulp. Once there, we were to go into a reception where little drinks and snacks were sold. At 8:30 the doors of the big hall opened, so we went in. Our class got split up, and I and moira went to sit on the first tribune we saw, while the rest of the class was working their way to the other side of the hall. A few minutes later, we hear somebody talk behind us, look and see our teacher. Then we looked in front of us, and there was Prince Laurent. That's the prince that goes to all the cultural events.

The show started with a long clown performance - a good performance. Also, they kept coming back during the rest of the evening, between designers, sometimes while models were walking. You know how a fashion show goes: a model comes up, walks around the catwalk and goes back off. We saw some really good designs, and a special note goes to Christophe Coppens, who designed 3 caddies and had them presented by 3 black women on the tones of The Supreme Sisters, very good stuff.

( Some pictures and links are behind the cut )
After the show, a Dutch guy that works for Sotheby's in London came on the stage to auction off 22 items. Then we went home. I heard that some cars got broken into and GPS systems got stolen. Of course, it was a deserted parking lot, on a friday night, pitch black dark. And nobody returning for an hour and a half. Plenty of time for thieves. Also, the parking lot is 500m from the ring around Brussels. Next year, my car is not on that parking lot.

It was fun, and I will be going back next year. And now I know what to expect. Also, the hall was too small for all the people they sold tickets to. I had some good people around me, so I could still breath, but in front of me was a bunch of girls (I expect 16-20 years old), and a guys ("Ah, belle fille! Hahahahaha.") came to sit next to them, and then invited 2 more people to squeeze into half a place on his other side. Must have been fun. So next year, I sit on the edge of the row, and not somewhere in the middle.
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Oct. 14th, 2007 @ 07:13 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 5
Tags: ,

Fashion Designer Course Year 2 Day 5



Before class, we saw Ostara (she was in our class last year) briefly. Was nice to see her, albeit only very short.

We drew the other half of the skirt (see Day 4), and most of the jacket. Our experienced seamstress was in, and completely took over. This is the suit we are making. It seems to be easy, but when you start looking, how deep are the pleats, how many are there, where are the seams in the jacket (how many?), how long are the parts, ... and all that from a picture. That proves for a lot of discussion:
"I'm not sure, this may be a seam."
"Or maybe there is a seam until the pockets."
"No, those are the threads in the fabric."



Northumbrian Tartan
I am a descendant of the House of Percy, earls and dukes of Northumbria. This is the oldest tartan, made with naturally colored wool (off white, yellowish) and dark-colored wool or wool from black sheep. There's even a company that makes it today. Let's see whether price and fabric are good to use. I really can't use heavy wool in this collection, so it should preferably be cotton or polyester.



I think we need more theory classes, it's nice to make a pattern and sew an outfit together, but I'm already going to make at least 6 very elaborate outfits, so a 7th is not really needed. The skirt alone would be enough for me. And quicker "over with". Of course, we get points for working on it.



The question came up whether it is possible to download video from the vrtnieuws.net website. And I just tried it, it is possible. But you need to go into the sourcecode and search for the correct url. And tada: choice of MPEG4 or WMV video in high or low quality. It's not even hidden.



On with my collection, I have 1 first draft, and books of inspiration. Also, I am unsure I want to use the "tartan" in any of the clothes, including it all over the collection may make it less easy to sell. Maybe as a lining, not immediately visible, but still very much present. Or as accessories such as scarves. But I don't know yet how, so much thinking to do. Hmm I wonder: what does Burberry do with theirs?
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Oct. 7th, 2007 @ 10:02 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 4
Tags: ,

Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 4


We did surprisingly little, although the whole time was filled.

We have a group task: "reproduce an outfit from the 1940s". And so now we are reproducing this outfit, skirt and jacket. What we did now was we made a pattern for the pleated part of the skirt. My magic calculating skills were handy. 47.2/9 = 5.2444 and 36.1/9 = 4.0111 ...

What we decided to do was make the hips 47 (*2=96 cm) and the waist 36 (*2=72 cm), that makes the pleats 4 cm at the waist, 5.24 at the hips and we then decided to make the pleats a little wider at the bottom. So 7 cm at the bottom. The other half of the skirt will not have pleats, and be straight. Except both sides should be symetric in silhouette, of course.

One of the students is a good seamstress, but she wasn't there this week. We mostly trust her to make the jacket work out. We are looking out for it, because collars (nl: kraag), lapels (nl:revers) and sleeves (nl: mouwen) are interesting constructions that can break an item if done incorrectly.

Have not received my books yet, so I'm eagerly waiting for them.
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link
Sep. 30th, 2007 @ 10:16 pm Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 3
Tags: ,

Fashion Designer Course Year 2, Day 3


The bulk of the class this day was drawing a fashion figure.

One of the things that is more important this year is to draw better. So what we did was we got copies of a drawing, and had to search for the horizontal lines (which were not horizontal): where is the shoulderline, waist, hips, knees. And then we had to make blocks out of the parts of the body: the torso, the hips, the legs, the arms, the head. The idea is that you need to be able to recognize these things before you'll be able to draw them.

After the copies, we got a huge stack of magazines, with the goal to search for a picture and do the same. That indeed proved to either be very simple or quite hard.

We were asked whether we had our theme and/or name for our collection already. So, a little list:
  1. Brigitte: Minerals, olivijn (nl; en: Olivine)
  2. Jasmin: probably summer in the winter. She wants to make a winter collection, but include typical summer elements into it.
  3. Me: Steampunk; and the name of the collection is 1888. This is also all you can know until the collection is ready. I think.
  4. Andrea: Shibori
  5. Moira: I didn't hear it, I was busy at the moment. But I'll ask her friday
  6. Rosa came in later, when we were drawing already. We'll know next week.


Also, I have some new books, and some on the way (all links go to Amazon UK)...

1. Fashion Design 1800-1940 400 pages full of images, no text. The book has an index in the back that tells you a little about the picture, but there is no text between/arpound the images.
2. The Complete Costume History: Originally published in France between 1876 and 1888, but general fashion stops around the year 1800, which is interesting, but not good enough. I bought this last year.
3. Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century This is the book that follows the one in 2. I need this for 2 reasons, first to have the complete history instead of until 1800. And second this is the book that contains the 1870-1880s.
4. Nineteenth-Century Fashion in Detail, which I bought together with the book(s) in 3. It's good to have as much resource material as possible. If I am really going through with this, I will need a good library for inspiration.

So, yes, these books are mostly reference books with lots of pictures in them.


Now, can somebody explain me why this book, Auguste Racinet: Costume History is worth 78 GBP, or even 120 GBP (=172Euro =245USD)? Isn't this the same as the one book I already have?
About this Entry
The Black A
Leave a comment
Permanent Link